PiTether: Mobile phone to ethernet bridge

Introduction

If you saw me at DefCon this year, you probably saw me using my HP Jornada. There was also a pretty good chance that you saw me getting it online in strange ways...

HACK THE PLANET! (Or just dial up a BBS...)

Since there aren't payphones everywhere, though, I built something interesting back in May, preparing for DefCon. It's a very simple Raspberry Pi ethernet bridge. I did this mostly to avoid using the open WiFi at DefCon, understanding that 3G/4G shenanigans are happening, but with a higher barrier to entry than the 802.11a/b/g/n/ac mess.

Yes, that's a Raspberry Pi Model B inside a case made of LEGO bricks.

Setting up Arch Linux

Being no stranger to building embedded systems, I decided to go with a bare-bones Arch Linux ARM install on a 2GB SD card. You could likely run with an even smaller card if you wanted to. The installation instructions are pretty straight-forward if you're familiar with the command line.

Once you have Arch Linux up and running on the Pi, I recommend changing the default passwords (alarm/alarm, root/root) and then doing a system update to get the latest packages from base. Simply connect the Pi to the Internet through its ethernet port, then run "pacman -Syyu" as root.

Configuring the network

The 3 interfaces we worry about are eth0, usb0 and br0. The first two basically work right out of the box:

/etc/systemd/network/eth0.network exists from the default installation, so the ethernet port is already set up for us.

When you activate USB Tethering from Android while plugged in to most modern Linux distros, it shows up as a network device (in this case, usb0) without any extra configuration.

br0 (the bridge interface) needs to be configured. First, we establish a netctl profile for it. Put the following text into a file called /etc/netctl/br0

Description="PiTether USB/Ethernet connection"
Interface=br0
Connection=bridge
BindsToInterfaces=(eth0 usb0)
IP=dhcp
SkipForwardingDelay=yes

Next, create a service file for systemd that calls netctl for the br0 interface. Put these contents in /etc/systemd/system/netctl@br0.service

.include /usr/lib/systemd/system/netctl@.service

[Unit]
Description=PiTether USB/Ethernet connection
BindsTo=sys-subsystem-net-devices-eth0.device
BindsTo=sys-subsystem-net-devices-usb0.device
After=sys-subsystem-net-devices-eth0.device
After=sys-subsystem-net-devices-usb0.device

Run the following command as root to enable the interface during start-up:

netctl enable br0

Reboot the Pi to make sure everything works as planned. To test:

1. Plug in your phone and activate USB Tethering.
2. Plug a device into the ethernet port of the Raspberry Pi
3. Request a DHCP Lease (happens automatically on most devices)
4. Try to browse the web or connect to something over the Internet (ping, ssh, etc)

As a finishing touch, I decided to make the entire filesystem read-only. This makes it so that the device can be safely powered off by simply unplugging it without any risk of corrupting the filesystem. I did this so that I never needed to SSH to it or hook up a console to safely shut it down. Since this is really a single-use project, this works pretty well. For more elaborate embedded-system work, I usually opt for a RAM disk configuration, but that's not needed here.

You can probably do this by sliding the write-protect tab on the SD card (for Pi A and B only) however, I opted to mark both filesystems "ro" in /etc/fstab. Apparently, root (/) is optional in fstab, but I added it by copying the /boot line and slightly altering the device and mountpoint fields. My /etc/fstab looks like this:

#
# /etc/fstab: static file system information
#
# file system   dir     type    options         dump    pass
/dev/mmcblk0p0  /       ext4    defaults,ro     0       0
/dev/mmcblk0p1  /boot   vfat    defaults,ro     0       0

You can give it one more reboot and test after that if you want. If you ever want to change anything in the filesystem, you can temporarily remount it read-write again by using the command "mount -o remount,rw /" while logged in as root. You can use that to remove ",ro" from the fstab options or to occasionally update packages.

Links: Root, Patch and Tether a Droid 2 Global

My wife and I have identical phones. She actually got hers before I got mine. Occasionally, I have to tether for troubleshooting, and I set hers up tonight to do the same.

I encountered a number of stumbling blocks the first time around. Fortunately, other people did all the hard work. Here are links I found helpful.

Download the latest SuperOneClick package. You'll have to root your phone. There's no easier way than this: SuperOneClick - Shortfuse

Get the Android WiFi Tether APK from Google Code.

At this point, if you try to tether, you'll run into a similar issue as I've described in previous tethering posts: the authentication string will cause tethered traffic to bounce up against Verizon's wrath warning page.

You'll need to download RadioComm, and the best way to find that is Google. You'll probably find fresh links to recent versions on XDA Devs or MotorolaFans. Caveat Emptor and all that. Shady download links galore, so be on your guard with good backups and malware protection. Here are the instructions to patch your phone's baseband configuration for tethery goodness.

After that, all should work well.

Getting the Lock Code on an LG Mobile Phone

A few weeks ago, my trusty LG Env3 met its untimely demise in a washing machine. I immediately yanked the battery out first. None of the usual tricks worked. I tried many of them, but here are a few that HAVE worked for me in the past with other peoples' phones:

• Take it apart and blow-dry the electronics
• Seal it in a container of uncooked rice or other desiccant overnight

This isn't about drying a phone out, though. I surfed eBay and was taken aback by the prices for used but working Env3's. So I decided to buy a broken one. Preferably one with a mechanical problem where the non-damaged mechanical parts from my electronically-fried phone could be put to good repair use. Like this one:


Lo and behold, the case was pretty well damaged and the ribbon cables joining the two halves had been severed. Otherwise, the phone seemed to be in okay shape. Commence repair. We are Env3 of Borg. Parts everywhere, mix and match a frankenphone. What a mess!


There's not much I can teach you about this. If you have the know-how to disassemble the pieces of two nearly-identical non-working objects and you know which parts are bad, you can probably assemble one good working unit. That's not what this is about, either.

This is about what happened to me once I powered on the resulting piecemeal ware -- something that happens probably more often than you'd think, whenever you buy a used phone from someone you don't know: The Lock Code... OF DOOM.




By default, the lock code is the last-four digits of the phone's programmed phone number during initial programming. This is different than the SERVICE CODE which is usually six zeroes. In the case of the eBay phone, though, we don't know the phone number. The easiest way to find out is to access the service menu. On newer LG phones, you enter "##PROGRAM" followed by the VX- model number, and hit send. The model number can usually be found inside the phone behind the battery compartment.


If it's a QWERTY clamshell like mine, the phone must be opened and the code must be entered on the QWERTY keyboard. Example: The Env3 is a VX-9200 and the service menu is accessed by hammering in [Sym]3[Sym]3PROGRAM9200[SEND] which shows on the screen as "##77647269200"


A prompt will show up for the service code. Again, this is 000000 by default.


Access the "Service Programming" menu, usually the first option. And don't change anything.


You'll see the Mobile Equipment ID and ESN on the first screen...


...and the Phone Number on the second screen. Write the phone number down. Exit the service programming menu. This will usually cause the phone to turn off or reboot.



Try the last four digits of the phone number as the unlock code. Usually, this works. When you call your provider to activate your phone, this unlock code should be changed to the last four digits of your phone number, and you're in the clear. Consult your user manual if you wish to de-activate locking.

In my case, however, the user was savvy or paranoid enough to know that friends who know the mobile number could probably guess the lock code. That is to say, the lock code on this phone was NOT the last four digits, and I was still locked out of the phone I paid for. At this point, I'm thinking that it'd have been nice for the seller to remember there was a lock code and to provide it. Oh well. Who am I to let a little 4-digit code get in my way? Not bloody likely.

Most phone service techs will charge $30 to $50 to remove the lock code. Highway robbery is somewhat expected with these guys, though. Enter my good old friend: QPST. Officially for service technician use only, QPST is a suite of programs for troubleshooting and programming phones using Qualcomm's lineup of mobile baseband processors. I used QPST in an article just over 2 years ago when discussing tethering.

The same thing applies. You can't buy QPST, but it's "out there" and you can easily download it or get it from a friend who works in the industry. You also have to run it on Windows, or at least in a virtual machine. If you do try to get it "in the wild" you should probably have a good anti-virus solution installed. You'll also need a data cable for your phone. LG's newer phones ship with a data cable and a USB Wall-Wart, so you probably already have a data cable.

Once you have the phone hooked up and the drivers installed, you should be able to see the phone in the QPST Configuration tool. If not, click "Add Port" and add one of the USB Serial ports. Select the phone from the list and launch the "Service Programming" tool from the "Start Clients" menu.

Flip over to the "1X/HDR Security" Tab and click the "Read From Phone" button. Voila. You've found the lock code! Below, you can see it was set to 4776. You should also be able to change it from this menu, but I didn't bother trying.


While there are some pretty cool things you can do with QPST aside from the things I have covered on HiR, you can also brick or damage your phone when you mess with it at this level, so think before you act.

Quick Project: 1/8" stereo adapter for my phone

My Wife's EnV Touch has a 1/8" jack, higher-res webcam with auto-focus, a better browser and a few other features I really wish this one had. I'm just not a fan of touch-screen phones.

I'm not sure why they went with the dinky 1/16" jack on the Env3, and I'm getting tired of using whatever 1/16" stereo headphones I can find with all of my phones. I want to use whatever headphones are laying around! All of the 1/16" adapters I've found only have 3 contacts, which means they don't quite line up right with the 4-contact jack (Common, left, right, and microphone) found on many mobile phones and result in only getting one of the two stereo channels. This isn't acceptable to me. I needed something better.

I gutted a portable DVD player that broke, and un-soldered a headphone jack. I also scavenged some other parts from it for later, such as the speakers, various two-color LEDs, switches and a few SMT components.

I also found a stereo mobile phone headset in a parking lot a few weeks back. The headphones had been run over and are useless. I cut them off, then soldered the new headphone jack to the wires. Common (usually plain copper color) goes to the highest ring. Left and right go to the other ring and the tip respectively. Or maybe I have left and right reversed. I'm not one to care.

I used heat shrink tubing to hold the entire assembly together. The end result still has a microphone built in, so I can now use any 1/8" headphone as a stereo headset with my new phone.

Total cost: $0.00. The entire thing was built from junk parts and expendable materials I had laying around, such as shrink tube and solder. I'm pretty sure this will find its way to There, I Fixed It.

KC2600: Sept. 4, 2009

Greater Kansas City 2600: Sept. 4, 5:00pm at the Oak Park Mall food court.

I've once again gotten a new phone, and once again had to hack it for tethering. I picked up the LG Env3 (like I'd planned on) while my wife scored the touch-screen version. I'm afraid I'd break the large touch-screen, but I've managed to hack them both into submission, and my Co-worker's LG Dare as well. At this next meeting, I'll go over what you need to change and why it matters. This will focus on 3G/CDMA/EV-DO networks such as VZW and Sprint, and will use LG Phones for the demonstrations.

Also, thanks to a tip from STRSHR (one of our readers and commenters), I've gotten my mitts on Piranha 2, an OpenWRT/Jasager-based firmware upgrade for La Fonera routers, which adds a few other goodies right out of the box. I think you'll like it.

I'll cover both of these topics in detailed posts sometime in September, but for now, you'll have to come out and see them live at the September KC2600 meeting if you're in the area. As always, we'll have other things up for discussion, followed by a good meal and maybe a little bit of a dive into the old Magic Dumpster™, weather permitting. Come out and join us!

I need a Kia.

No, not really. It is about time for a new phone, though. My two-year subsidized phone contract is up in a few weeks, and not a moment too soon. I've had a great run of things with my 2nd Generation LG Chocolate VX8550. But it's showing signs of being on its last legs and it's gotten pretty beat up the past few years.

Mine is on the left. My wife's is on the right. Nicks, scratches, a non-working soft-button... Yeah, I am kind of rough on my phones. All that bicycle riding, dumpster diving, and setting the phone down on concrete takes its toll...


When asking for advice on what new phone to get, I put forth the following requirements

• Decent battery life
• MMS/SMS ability
• WAP Browser (gmail's WAP interface is good enough for me)
• Tethering ability (even if it's under-the-radar like I do with my Chocolate)
• I'd really like a qwerty keyboard, not required though.
  
• Affordable. Like under $100 after renewing my plan.
  

I wouldn't mind if it can play music or take photos as long as it supports microSD cards, but even those features, I don't really need. I need a Kia of the phone world. Something minimalist. I do not want a smart phone.

Then, it seems the entire world is out to tell me how awesome smart phones are and decide to chastize me for my adamant stance of not needing one. In essence, these folks are preaching about how practical their Ferraris of the phone world are.

The thing is, I carry my laptop most everywhere I absolutely need a computer. Until I can buy a phone that's got 200GB of storage, Wifi AND 3G (or equivalent), and can do some pretty solid web browsing, SSH, and things like that, I really can't justify replacing my laptop with a phone. Therefore, it makes little sense to overlap functionality while spending a lot more on a phone than I need to.

So, I'll put the call out to you, our readers, who might be somewhat enlightened. You might actually understand I want just a phone with a WAP browser, tethering, and maybe a qwerty keyboard, something that I can score for under $100 and use on Verizon's network. I kind of have my eyes on the LG EnV3 (shown left)

Also, you're more than welcome donate a VZW-compatible smart-phone to me if you really, really think I absolutely must be converted. You won't find me bankrolling your experiment, though. I'll do my best to go about my daily grind while using it, and try hard not to completely destroy it. Note: I've busted a few touch-screens in my day. Things like BB Storm wouldn't stand a chance with me.

Serious suggestions wanted. Tell me in the comments.

Web filter evasion part 2: Out of band

View entire series: Web Filter Evasion

A lot of times, you kind of want access to your favorite content, even if it's just to read it, while at work or school. Some places with more draconian Internet access policies block pretty much everything "cool" and paint their restrictions with a very wide brush. In this series, we'll uncover a few ways around these restrictions.

With each article, I will delve into techniques that are progressively more advanced and difficult to implement. Keep in mind that this is a thought exercise in evasion. Implementing this stuff could get you expelled from school, fired from your job, or banned from public-access computers in a library or coffee shop. With a little bit of wisdom, you can often get around the restrictions set in place without getting yourself into hot water.

In Part 2, I'll cover out-of-band communication. Why spend time trying to trick the web filter when you can simply not go through it at all? Creeping into our list at number two, this trick is somewhat obvious and well-documented. Most computer users can manage to connect to a wireless network or follow the instructions that come with a mobile data service plan.

Personally, this is what I do most of the time. I'm using my own laptop and my own internet connection. Where I work, I'm not breaking any rules at all, so long as the content I'm browsing doesn't offend my peers. If I'm not disturbing anyone and I'm getting my work done, my boss doesn't mind.

Problems

• Cost. To properly implement something like this, you'll likely need a laptop computer, Wi-Fi enabled PDA, a smartphone of some sort, or other expensive equipment.
• Totally uncontrolled access. Neither IT Departments nor managers are often comfortable when you have 100% unfettered access to whatever you want. This could get you in trouble.
  

Advantages that will work in your favor

• The fact that you'll be avoiding connecting through the work or school network means that anything on your computer is NOT on the work or school network. This is sometimes a sigh of relief for netadmins.
• What you do out-of-band can't be monitored by the network, either.

Wi-Fi

The cheapest and easiest way. If there are networks in range, fire up your Wireless Ethernet (IEEE 802.11, Wi-Fi, etc.) and join an open network that you can surf freely from. Most operating systems will display a list of open networks you can try connecting to. Obviously, you should try to access ones that are blatantly set up for public use. Maybe there's a cafe across the street. Failing that, you can TRY to access networks that are left unsecured by accident. This can get you into legal trouble, though. HiR doesn't advocate that.

If you feel like getting a little bit more advanced in your search for a public network to piggyback, install wireless scanning software (KisMAC, BSD Airtools, Kismet or Netstumbler), pick up some high-gain antennae and a high-power wireless ethernet card. The widespread deployment of privately-operated, free Wi-Fi makes this a viable option in dense urban and business districts.

Mobile Data plans (Wireless broadband)

Sprint and Verizon (among others, probably) offer data plans with mobile data cards that you can plug into your laptop via PCMCIA, USB or Express Card connectors. These plans can be costly, but will work anywhere you can get a signal on your phone. Using these services is as simple as paying for it and following the instructions. If you have trouble getting it working, you can even call your provider for free technical support.

Also in the same vein are smartphones. Gadgets such as the iPhone offer feature-packed browsing via the phone's data plan. You can also get on AIM/MSN/Yahoo or check many websites and mail providers through the built-in WAP Browser on less advanced mobile phones.

Mobile Phone Tethering
This is a little more shady, and could get your account terminated with your wireless carrier. By plugging in a cable between your laptop and mobile phone (or using bluetooth to make the connection) you can "tether" and use your phone's built-in data connection to access the Internet. HowardForums is a good place to learn about this stuff in more detail.

Next in this series, we'll dive head-first into web-based anonymous proxies -- a sure-fire way to get your IT guys angry at you, should you be caught in the act.

View entire series: Web Filter Evasion

Unofficial DUN Tethering guide: LG Chocolate (vx8550) Hack

-- OR --
Adventures of a new mobile phone Pt. 3...

Editor's note: this particular article involves downloading and installing software from un-trusted web site. That's dangerous. It also involves running Windows. That's also dangerous. To top it all off, it also involves software that interacts with your mobile phone at a very low level. That, too, is dangerous. In short, HiR isn't responsible if you get in trouble with the law or your service provider, get a virus from a russian s3ri4lz site, get somehow addicted to running Windows, or brick your shiny new gadget.




Now for the fun stuff. One of the things I kind of relied on my Motorola e815 for was dial-up networking (DUN) via bluetooth. I didn't necessarily use it a lot, but as a sysadmin that's always been a bit of a road warrior, I often find myself places where there simply is no Internet. Inevitably, the pager-of-doom goes off and I'm out at the lake camping or at a location where there's no obvious Internet connection available. Other times, I'll be on a commuter bus and have the burning desire to check the news, or do some research on something really quick.

Whatever the reason, I enjoyed this functionality. On the e815, this was simple to enable. A quick punch-of-numbers on the keypad and voila. My MacBook could see it as a bluetooth modem with surprisingly quick download speed nonetheless -- at times upwards of 1mbit/sec.

The LG Chocolate? Different story. My MacBook saw it, but I wasn't getting anywhere. The connection would be refused with an invalid login and password, even though my login and password were fine when using my e815. This had me concerned.

I did a quick bit of research, and found that the phone has some internal IDs that differ when used for DUN. There's no quick handset-hack for this. Two things were required: A Data Cable, and the proprietary software from Qualcomm (called QPST) for changing the phone's settings. Even BitPIM wouldn't help me here.

All of the Windows operations were done within Parallels Desktop on a small Windows 2000 partition with all the latest patches. This isn't saying much, I don't know when the last patch was released for Windows 2000 but it's a lightweight operating system that can run the few Windows apps that I am ever tempted to launch.

The first order of business was to find the software. Unfortunately, the location where I got it seems to be offline, but you'll have to search for it. The specific file I found was a compressed installer for QPST 2.7 Build 231. Other builds might work fine. I'll caution you that a lot of sites that I found contained massive amounts of shady stuff, so do this at your own risk. I scanned the downloaded file for viruses before transferring it to my Win2K virtual machine. This is only available for Windows. Once downloaded, install it. It's a pretty straight-forward next-next-next installation.

Next, of course, was finding the data cable. I went ahead and purchased the Verizon Chocolate music accessory kit. It was a relative bargain at only $45. Along with the USB Data cable, I also got a special stereo 1/16" headset, a 2GB TransFlash card and adapters. The package also came with drivers for the USB connection as well as software for managing music on the phone. I obviously had no intention of using their Windows software just to copy files to my phone, but the driver was also Windows-only. I installed the USB driver, inserted the 2GB card into my phone, and went on my way with the rest of this hack.

Once the drivers are installed, the phone shows up on a high COM Port. Make sure the phone is plugged in and if running Parallels (versus doing this on a dedicated Windows machine) make sure that the USB Device is enabled for Parallels (Devices > USB menu) then open QPST Configuration and hit "Add Port". If all's well, you should see your phone in the dialog. Select and add it accordingly.





Once the port has been added, close QPST Configuration.

Next, open QPST's Service Programming tool. It should immediately prompt you to select your phone. Select it and continue. BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING AT ALL, hit "Read from Phone", enter the SP code (usually 000000) and then save the data to a file. This will back-up your phone's configuration.


Now that that's out of the way, on the row of tabs across the top, scroll over until you find the M.IP tab. Expand the "NAI" and "Tethered NAI" columns so you can read them both clearly. You can see that Tethered NAI is not the same as NAI.


Edit Tethered NAI so that it matches.


Then, save this configuration to a different backup file. Don't over-write your pristine backup, please. Finally, get your phreak on and click the "Write to Phone" button and cross your fingers.

Quit the QPST Service Programming tool. Your phone should reboot and be completely intact.


From there, you set up your dial-up networking as usual. This is straight-forward in both Windows and Mac OS X.

Phone Number: #777
User Name: the tethered NAI you used above, ex: 1234567890@vzw3g.com
Password: vzw (but anything should work)

Now that you have the cable with a driver for Windows, you can do USB Serial or bluetooth on Windows.

Without a USB Driver on OS X you can still do Bluetooth DUN. If you configured your phone's Bluetooth connection with the "Access the internet with this phone's data connection" option checked, it should simply ask for a username and password.

Adventures of a new mobile phone Pt. 2 - BitPIM

Editor's Note: This is the second part of my adventures of converting to a new phone. The first two parts will cover synchronizing your contacts between my old phone and my new phone. Although I'm using Mac OS X for most of this series, the tool I'm covering in this article works on both Mac OS X and Windows.

So, either your first phone isn't supported by iSync, or both. Or perhaps you're a Windows user that's ready to give BitPIM a whirl. Whatever the case, BitPIM is the focus of this article.

In the last article, I discussed getting your contacts into your Address book from your phone via iSync. To get these contacts into a format usable by BitPIM, you must export the contacts. It's worth mentioning that any contact information manager including MS Outlook, Mozilla Thunderbird and most of the popular web-mail sites can export your contacts to a vCard file that BitPIM can load onto your phone. Again, if the screen shots aren't legible, click on them to get the full sized image.

To get your contacts out of OS X's Address Book, highlight all of your contacts (or only the ones you want to load onto your new phone) and then use the File -> Export -> Export vCard menu.



I assume that you've already established a bluetooth or cable connection from your computer to your new phone following the instructions in Part 1. Once that's established, download and install BitPIM. Run it.

BitPIM is a bit of a kludgy beast. The UI isn't terribly intuitive. It won't work with all BlueTooth phones. Case and point, my e815 covered in Part 1 doesn't seem to get along very well with BitPIM, and I can't seem to get it to connect. BitPIM works on more phones than iSync, so between iSync and BitPIM you're likely covered.

First, get your phone working with BitPIM. Select "Preferences" from the "BitPIM" menu. Try the Phone Wizard, or adjust the settings manually. This isn't too hard.


We'll import the exported vCards we got out of Address Book:


You'll be prompted to merge or replace existing data. If this is the first time you've run BitPIM, you shouldn't need to do much else. Just walk through the prompts and get all your contacts into BitPIM.

Now, Click the "Write To Phone" button (Second icon on the upper left, between the "Read From Phone" icon and the Big H "Historical Data" Icon).


Select "Contacts" (and Add or Replace as you need) and hit OK. You'll see the progress meter at the bottom scroll a few times, and then when it's done, it will likely restart your phone.


You can also sync the BitPIM calendar to various calendars, for example Google Calendar, iCal, or a calendar on another phone. If your new phone supports it, you may be able to grab your calendar data and beam it to your phone easily with BitPIM. The LG Chocolate VX8550's calendar works well with BitPIM, so if you've got one, feel free to give it a shot. BitPIM has a lot of other functionality as well. Play with the Import and Export options in the file menu.

Beware that BitPIM does, in fact, alter your phone's internal data files. There is a possibility that you could brick your phone. All in all, I've had pretty good luck with it so far.

See Also:
Adventures of a new mobile phone Pt. 1
Other HiR Mobile Articles

Adventures of a new mobile phone Pt. 1

Editor's Note: This is the first part of my adventures of converting to a new phone. The first two parts will cover synchronizing your contacts between my old phone and my new phone. These instructions should work pretty well for most Bluetooth-enabled phones, or for phones that you have a Data Cable and drivers for. I'm using Mac OS X for most of this series with the exception of the final article, which will cover the proprietary Windows-based tool used to manipulate my specific phone for additional functionality that I wanted.



Well, the time has come for a new phone. It's not that my trusty Motorola e815 hasn't been great, because it has been. In fact, I was reluctant to give it up. I got it in 2005 or so. Since then, it's been buried in snow, had the case cracked, and other torturous events. The thing keeps ticking. Truth be known, I'll probably hold onto it just in case I fail to bond with my new gadget. So, why is it time for a new phone? Because it's FREE -- with a 2 year contract, of course! If I don't upgrade, I'm basically giving away an offer for a free phone. I've been with Verizon in one form or another (i.e. Cellular One) for about a decade, though. In general, I've got nothing but great things to say about them. Another 2 years won't hurt anything.

First things first: My current phone has almost 100 phone numbers, and almost 80 unique contacts. Re-entering all of that information into a new phone doesn't sound like my idea of a fun way to waste an entire weekend.

With iSync, I can pull all the data out of the e815. iSync works with quite a few phones, so yours might be on the list. If you're using only Windows, I don't know how to sync your phone to Outlook or whatnot, but I'd imagine it can be done easily enough. Let's get started! If you have trouble making out the screen shots, click to zoom in on them.

First, get the phone connected via Bluetooth. There's probably a "discoverable" mode on your phone that you'll need to activate. See your documentation for how to do it. Once it's in discoverable mode, it's time to go to work.

Select "Set up Bluetooth device" from the bluetooth menu:


Next, just work through the prompts including the bonding PIN which you'll have to enter on your phone's handset. Note that I'm in a public place and people have other bluetooth enabled devices nearby with clever names such as "The Blade!" (oooo, scary)








We won't need to enable the Internet connection through the phone, so you can un-check it if you want. When you activate bluetooth on your new phone, you can choose to enable it if you plan on tethering later on. Note that this is potentially against the terms of service for your carrier unless you cough up the cash for a data plan.


Once complete, iSync should launch on its own. It not, start it manually. With that out of the way, fire up Address Book (in Applications) as well. The default settings for iSync should be fine. Go ahead and Sync:


iSync, in true Apple form, will try to protect you from doing something stupid like updating a ton of information in its Address Book without permission from you. Go ahead and sync the contacts.


You'll now see all your contacts in the Address Book. You didn't think I'd actually show you all the names of people I talk to, do you?


Now, if you're lucky and your new phone is ALSO supported by iSync, you can shut off your old phone, fire up your new phone, and do the exact same procedure all over again. The Address Book will store all your contacts. Syncing your new phone will move all the contacts and their numbers over seamlessly.

Unfortunately, my new phone, the second-generation LG Chocolate (VX8550) isn't supported. Tune in for Part 2, where I'll discuss using BitPIM to help you out if you're dealing with unsupported phones.