I got tired of essentially re-writing the same article over and over again, yet it seems with each release of OpenBSD and each OAMP install I do, things get just a little more refined. So I present to you a living document on its own page here at HiR Information Report. It's been written so that it is not specific to a distinct architecture or version of OpenBSD, so long as the proper packages exist on the OpenBSD mirror sites. This has been updated and tested on OpenBSD 4.8 and the recently-released OpenBSD 4.9, i386 architecture only.
Secure OpenBSD, Chroot Apache, MySQL and Suhosin Hardened PHP Installation Guide
2011-05-23
OAMP Update: Secure OpenBSD, Apache, MySQL and PHP
2011-05-19
Why I'm coming home to OpenBSD
Although those who know me will tell you I love OpenBSD, I'm generally an operating system agnostic. I enjoy tinkering with OSes, and always have. There have been a few I tried and couldn't enjoy for the life of me (Mac OS versions prior to OS X, PalmOS, HP-UX and plan9 among them) but since 1997, OpenBSD has always felt like home to me, and I've long been a little bit of a fan.
Labels: openbsd, opensource, rant
2011-04-25
Using Severe Weather WX Alert on Yaesu Handhelds
I have a Yaesu VX-7R and VX-2, both of which are great handheld radios. Deep in the menu system, each one has a "WX Alert" option. It's item 20 in the VX-7R's menu, and the VX-2's menu items are in alphabetical order, so look for "WX ALT" there. After enabling this option, my radios still failed to alert me when the National Weather Service issued alerts via their NOAA Weather Radio system. What gives? The manuals that came with my radios are very vague about how to use this feature, and Googling around, it seems like a lot of people have the same problem.
The trick is that you have to be scanning!
On the VX-7R, you have to be scanning the weather band for this to work. If you scan the weather band with WX Alert enabled, it will silently pause on any NOAA Weather Radio stations it finds, listening for the alert tone without breaking squelch. If it finds one, it will stop, open the squelch and play the weather alert. I recommend using the SUB band for this. Here's how you do it.
* Press [F] then [0] to enter the menu, and scroll to item 20. Enable WX Alert by pressing the [MAIN] or [SUB] buttons, then momentarily press PTT to exit the menu.
* If you have only the MAIN tuner up, press and hold the [MAIN] or [SUB] button to see the dual tuners. Momentarily press [SUB] to select the SUB tuner.
* Press [F] then [3] to move the SUB tuner to the WX band.
* Press [F] then [1] to start scanning the WX band for weather alerts.
* Press [MAIN] to start controlling the MAIN tuner, and use the radio as normal.
On the VX-2:
* Press and hold the H/L button to enter the menu, scroll to "WX ALT"
* Press H/L momentarily, then use the VFO knob to enable it.
* Press PTT Momentarily to save the setting.
* Press [F] followed by the [WIRES] button in the bottom left corner to enter special memory mode
* If needed, press [BAND] repeatedly until the weather band shows up.
* Press and hold the [BAND] key to scan the weather band.
The VX-2 will silently pause on any NOAA Weather Radio stations it finds, listening for the alert tone without breaking squelch. If it finds one, it will stop, open the squelch and play the weather alert. I also found that if this option is enabled on the VX-2 and you're scanning other memory frequencies, the radio will occasionally jump over to the weather band and listen for the alert tone. You should probably have the WX band tuned to the frequency of the nearest weather radio transmitter, because I don't think it scans the whole weather band, only the station that was last used in the WX Special memory mode.
Of course, not all Yaesu radios have these features, and these steps may not work exactly the same for all Yaesu radios that support WX Alert.
2011-04-18
The Real Insider Threat
Today, I saw this interesting piece on insider threats posted to CERT, and was somewhat baffled. I stewed on it a bit, but a Google Reader comment by Carnal0wnage spun up my rant engine. Here, people are actually being urged to spy on their peers then name them and shame then, as if it's totally normal to put bear traps in the server room and roll your own ECHELON, lynching in the commons anyone who dares to raise the ire of the great and awesome security team. They titled their session "What's working to stop these attacks?" It's us versus them.
When I was still a student, years before my real career in information security would take hold, it was commonplace to hear that some unfathomable percent of attacks are from malicious insiders. Maybe it was true in the 1990s. After years of leaving corporate workstations and academic lab computers hanging out on the Internet with public IP addresses and no firewalls, administrators were finally getting a clue, NATting workstations and putting up chintzy first-generation port-blocking firewalls. Students and curious employees were suddenly the ones with unrestricted access to internal systems protected -- if you wish to call it that -- by these prototypical security systems. Maybe this logic made sense back then.
Be that as it may, I've seen more data loss from people bypassing draconian security policy than I've seen data loss from the rare disgruntled trade-secret packrat with one hand in the cookie jar and one foot out the door. That's not to say these things don't happen. They do! But they're not the typical modern insider threat.
At my last job, I would occasionally have the option to work remotely for server maintenance, or instead drive 15 miles to the office at 11:00 PM on a Saturday night, and stay there until 4:00 AM Sunday morning. Working from home meant this:
- Firing up some proprietary piece of VPN software that only ran on Windows.
- Using a 2-factor authentication token to get into the VPN.
- Using RDP to access a "secure" sandbox server, which was pretty much the only thing the VPN would let you access remotely. This required the use of the 2-factor token again, but you had to wait to make sure you didn't use the same one-time key twice in a row.
- Using RDP from that server to get to my desktop, which also ran Windows.
- SSHing from my workstation to a central administration server that was dual-homed and could actually access the servers I needed to work on.
- Performing the work on the servers.
2011-03-29
OpenVAS & Greenbone Security Assistant Basics
This is the second part of a series on OpenVAS, the open-source vulnerability scanner. In my last post, I walked you through compiling the various pieces of OpenVAS and getting it up and running. Now it's time to talk about the fundamentals. For this and future posts, we'll be using the web front-end to OpenVAS, called Greenbone Security Assistant, and we'll assume it's running on your local machine.
Why bother with OpenVAS, or vulnerability scanning in general?
echo "Starting OpenVAS Scanner Daemon..."/usr/local/sbin/openvassd && echo [ OK ]echo "Starting OpenVAS Manager Daemon..."/usr/local/sbin/openvasmd && echo [ OK ]echo "Starting OpenVAS Administrator Daemon..."/usr/local/sbin/openvasad && echo [ OK ]echo "Starting Greenbone Security Assistant Web Interface..."/usr/local/sbin/gsad --http-only && echo [ OK ]echo "Downloading NVT Updates..."/usr/local/sbin/openvas-nvt-sync && echo [ OK ]
0 4 * * * /usr/local/sbin/openvas-nvt-sync
You don't need to create a custom scan config to get started with OpenVAS, but If you decide to create a new Scan Config, you'll have the ability to edit it (the wrench will not be greyed out)
and you'll be faced with a huge assortment of scanning options allowing you to fine-tune your scan. You'll also see options for so-called NASL Wrappers, which are scripts that help OpenVAS utilize third-party tools such as nmap, nikto, w3af and others. Tuning your scan parameters is important, but complicated enough that it's beyond the scope of this series. Most vulnerability scanners I've used (Nessus, ISS, etc...) have a configuration section like this, and it's always a very, very deep rabbit-hole. Mastering this is a bit of an art, but I usually break the enterprise up into "classes" so that like-systems are scanned with relevant checks so I'm not throwing 5,000 futile Windows checks at the Linux servers in the DMZ, for example. Feel free to leave me a comment if you want me to discuss this kind of classification setup in more detail.
When building custom configs, I recommend using the existing scan configs as a template, and tweaking things from there to get your bearings. Try the "Full and very deep" scan first if you have any doubts. It's unlikely to knock anything off the network, but be careful! The "Trend" radio button selects whether this scan config will grow and import new NVT plugins or remain static with only the plugins you selected for that particular plugin family. If you start using OpenVAS frequently, you'll probably want to become familiar with tuning scan configs to get rid of false positives or enable more features.
Labels: opensource, openvas, scanning, tools, ubuntu, vulnerability
2011-03-21
OpenVAS on Ubuntu 10.10 Maverick Meerkat Install Notes
When Tenable took Nessus through a code re-write and closed its source, the old code was forked a few times. As far as I can tell, OpenVAS is the strongest surviving variant. There's a really old version in most Linux distributions' package repositories, but it's out of date, the 2.x version.
- Greenbone Security Desktop, which looks a lot like the older Nessus GUI
- Greenbone Security Assistant, a clean web UI similar to the new Nessus, except more feature rich
- OpenVAS-cli, a tool that's good for lightweight scheduled scanning
# bindings/
# doc/
# gsa/
# gsd/
# image-packages/
# openvas-administrator/
# openvas-cli/
# openvas-client/
# openvas-compendium/
# openvas-libraries/
# openvas-manager/
# openvas-packaging/
# openvas-plugins/
# openvas-scanner/
# sladinstaller/
# tools/
# winslad/
Create a CA (walk through the prompts):
sudo openvas-mkcert
Labels: linux, opensource, openvas, scanning, tools, ubuntu, vulnerability
2011-01-22
Building 2D Movie Glasses
3D movies have gained ridiculous ubiquity in the theater lately. Some movies tend to use the effect to a more pleasant degree than others, but I think most of us can agree that many movies don't need to be released in 3D. Some people get headaches or feel distracted by the over-use and exaggeration of the stereoscopic effects of these movies.
If you've watched a 3D movie, You've probably taken your glasses off in the middle, only to see a double-vision mess caused by being able to perceive both video channels at the same time with both eyes. Watching a movie this way is likely even more frustrating than enduring the side-effects of 3D.
Obviously, I'd suggest not seeing movies in 3D if you are prone to these side-effects, but perhaps your group of friends just HAS to see this movie in 3D, or maybe your schedule makes it more convenient to see a 3D showing. Here, I'll show you how to take two normal pairs of disposable RealD glasses and hack them so that your eyes only see one of the two video channels, effectively stripping the 3D effect from the big screen. The sad part: you still have to wear the stupid glasses.
There are several families of 3D video. RealD(tm) is currently the most commonly deployed 3D cinematic technology, and it uses something called circular polarization. Some of you might be familiar with polarized lenses used in sunglasses and camera filters. Those are usually linear polarizers. Linear polarizers are also used on LCD screens and have a number of other commercial applications. It would be possible to show movies with the left and right channels polarized linearly at right angles to one other, but this would force moviegoers to hold their head in such a way so that the lenses remained perfectly level, or else video brightness and channel separation would fall to pieces, although brightness always suffers a little when using polarized lenses.
Circular polarization works similarly, but the light is polarized in a helical fashion. This is a much more complicated process that solves several of the problems with linear polarization. One channel is polarized in a clockwise helix while the other channel is polarized counter-clockwise, allowing the lenses to filter out the other channel without being constrained the way linear polarizing lenses would as I mentioned above. The easiest ways to demonstrate this are to look through a pair of these disposable goggles and into a mirror, or look at one pair of 3D glasses through another pair. Apologies in advance for using crappy camera phone pictures for this. It's all I had on hand.
You would think all we have to do is take one of the lenses out and flip it over, so that both lenses only show the clockwise or counter-clockwise channel. I thought so too, but there seems to be more at play than I suspected and that won't work. Edit: each lens contains two filters bonded together, a polarizer and a "quarter wave plate", and flipping one lens over puts these filters in the improper order.
You'll have to tear into two pairs of 3D glasses, but the good news is that you can make two pair of 2D glasses out of them and give one to a friend. In a pinch, you could probably do all of this right there in the theater with nothing more than a simple Classic Swiss Army Knife. I'd recommend making these ahead of time, though.
If done correctly, this will get rid of most of the artifacts of stereoscopic cinematography, and hopefully relieve any side effects you might suffer.
RealD frames are snapped together in two pieces. With a small screwdriver, knife or other prying device, you can separate the inner part of the frame. We just need the lower part of one side of the frame to come apart far enough to slip the lens out.
Slide the lens out of the frame, being careful to not scrape it up.
Perform the two above steps on the opposite lens of the second pair of glasses.
Using scissors, trim the thin lens material so that you can fit each lens into the "wrong" side of the other frame. Don't trim so much that it's prone to fall out of the frame, but trim enough that it won't bend or crease when you put it back into the frame.
Carefully slide the lens into the other frame, being sure it slides into the thin slot snugly. Remember, we're taking the left lens of one frame and putting it into the right side of another frame, and/or vise versa. You don't really need to put the second frame together if you only need one set of 2D glasses.
Snap the frames back together, then wipe the lenses clean, as they're sure to have fingerprints all over them.
If you did it right, you should see that the movie looks the same through both eyes, and that looking at yourself in the mirror shows both dark lenses through both eyes, instead of just the lens you're looking through being dark.